Monday, September 29, 2008

Miso Harney Sushi: Comfort Roll, Andy 2 Roll




Miso Harney!!!

This sushi bar is called “Miso Harney.”

As in miso soup and Harney Street in San Diego where the restaurant sits, what were you thinking???

Although cleverly named as if to attract tourists, this sushi bar is really more of a local’s hangout. It’s a long trek anyhow from the hubbub of Old Town, where visitors wander about and Mexican restaurants dominate the food scene.

But even out-of-towners like myself are greeted and treated like family here; the staff is friendly and efficient as they seat you in the plushy lounge-like dining area or at the oversize sushi bar. A DJ spins cool cacophony from a corner booth and a menu filled with creatively named items tempts you to read every exasperatingly fun description.

Names like Rollz Royce Roll and Grey Poupon Roll jump off the page, screaming ingredients such as “money sauce” and—you guessed it—Grey Poupon mustard. I am adventurous with sauces, but I wasn’t in the mood to shout over the din and question the chef what exactly is money sauce, and somehow mustardy goop didn’t sound like it would pair well with deep-fried lobster in a sushi roll, so I settled for the less crazy-sounding (but still creative!) choices.

The Comfort Roll may sound placid, but the pungence of its contents contradict. Spicy tuna, tart lemon slices and chili powder are just a few of the key ingredients in this formidable roll, which bristles with shaved bonito on top. A little dipping bowl of “spicy ponzu” sauce comes with it, giving it even more flavor that it doesn’t need. $15 sounds hefty but the roll reflects its price.

By comparison, the “Andy 2 Roll” smacks of plainness (perhaps I should have tried this one first, before the other fiery one numbed my tongue) but that’s kind of nice too—at least you can taste the fresh fish, without all the torrid palate-torturing spices. This one is a milder version of the previous: spicy tuna and lemon slivers recur, but raw salmon steps in for the other flavors.

The Marina Roll


The Winner is...the Marina Roll!

The Marina Roll takes the crown—spicy lobster meets cool and refreshing cucumber and radish sprouts, topped with the rare but wondeful escolar (also known as butterfish) which is just as buttery and slick as any fish can hope to be. The menu says this roll comes with a creamy soy sauce, but I think the dollops of white are more like a salty-sweet mayonnaise…perfect nonetheless with this zesty roll, which is finally finished off with chili powder.

Miso Harney!

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Origami Sushi in Minneapolis

The Diva Does Minnesota

Minnesotans eat good sushi. The Diva has proof.

You wouldn’t think that the humble metropolis of Minneapolis would be a place one would find hip, trendy Japanese cuisine; after all, this north-midwestern city evokes wintry images of icy slush and idyllic small-town charm, and it’s certainly not known for the big-city culture normally associated with ethnic restaurants.

But along with fresh breathable air and lightly trafficked roads, the City of Lakes unexpectedly offers some refreshing epicurean delights, even if leaving your car presents a challenge with the lack of parking lots in this labyrinth of brick buildings and one-way streets.

Take Origami for example. This uber-cool Japanese eatery in Downtown Minneapolis features a multiethnic chef brigade serving items such as the “New York, New York” Roll, a dish that appears ordinary but which actually uses apples in place of cucumber. Crunchy tempura flakes crust the outer layer while a spicy crab mix and slices of apple sit inside, with eel sauce to accompany it all. (I have seen apples used in sushi rolls only three other times in my decade-long sushi odyssey, twice in Hollywood and once in San Francisco. It is not a shocker, merely a nice treat stumbled upon once in a great while at restaurants with boldly experimental sushi makers).

TiGERSUSHi !!! & Mall of America Roller Coaster